To describe vicuña simply as “the most expensive fabric in the world” would hardly tell the whole story.
Piacenza selects the finest vicuña fibres directly from Arequipa and Ayacucho in southern Peru.
From tracing the origin and journey of each fibre to supporting the protection of local communities and the animals themselves,
every stage is considered an essential part of sourcing the raw material.
Living wild in the highlands of the Andes, vicuñas are carefully gathered through the traditional practice known as the Chaccu.
Their fleece is gently shorn before the animals are released back into the wild.
Each vicuña yields only a very small amount of fibre, from which the exceptionally soft undercoat suitable for weaving is carefully selected once again.
The resulting fibres measure approximately 12 microns in diameter.
Finer and lighter than conventional cashmere, vicuña has none of the overt shine one might associate with luxury. Instead, its surface carries a deep, subtle lustre.
In the hand, it feels remarkably soft. Yet the moment it is released, the fabric settles back into a quiet, composed surface.
It is this combination of extraordinary softness and understated character that defines the impression of truly exceptional vicuña.
But a precious fibre does not necessarily make a fine suit.
Vicuña is exceptionally soft and delicate, and too much force or heat can easily diminish its natural character.
Nor does it respond well to heavy internal structure or excessive pressing used to impose a rigid shape.
For this suit, TAILORABLE focused not on making the construction visible, but on preserving the natural drape and depth of the vicuña.
The weight of the front was carefully balanced, the lapels were allowed to roll softly, and only the necessary amount of structure was retained through the chest and shoulders.
The intention was to let the surface of the cloth and the silhouette speak before any conspicuous detail.
More delicate still than cutting and sewing is the pressing.
Temperature, moisture and pressure must be controlled with precision, while still giving the suit the definition it requires.
Bespoke tailoring in vicuña is not about making an already soft cloth softer. It is about giving precise order to a fabric that already possesses exceptional softness.
The relationship between the two houses goes beyond simply supplying and selecting cloth.
Through years of collaboration, we have exchanged perspectives and experience, continually exploring how exceptional materials can best be translated into a finished garment.
The reason Piacenza’s vicuña fabrics are handled by only a select number of maisons and bespoke houses around the world is not simply their rarity or price.
